27/08/2010

Brunch at Casa Mono

--NEW YORK --

It's Mark here, reporting from the Big Apple.


My cousin Jackie first turned me on to proper Spanish cuisine when I moved to New York some years back. Jackie lived in Spain for a good chunk of time, and it was there that she dove head first into the world of Flamenco, made some lifelong pals, and no doubt ate some seriously unforgettable food. Since my wife and I moved to New York, Jackie has shown us the way to some excellent Spanish eateries to be found around town. Some spots were fancy and modern, others simple and unassuming, some fiercely traditional, while others presented a modern fusion. We became instant fans. Top that off with a honeymoon visit to Barcelona last year, and our love of Spanish food has skyrocketed to epic levels.


This is Casa Mono. Once in a blue moon, I'll meet Jackie at this cozy spot. Usually we'll go for dinner, but on this particular occasion Jackie and I shared a nice Sunday Cousin Brunch. I'd say it's a modern and perhaps more avante garde take on classic Spanish favorites. The food is really damn good, and consistently so. Why is it so tasty? Because Mario Batali owns this place. That's why. Before anything is ordered, you get this perfect staple. Sliced baguette paired with Spanish olives and a pool of olive oil for dipping. You can tell by the deep green color that this ain't no po man's olive oil. Yes, this is the good stuff. Hide it from the kids. After being turned on to this simple concept, I often ask for olive oil with the free bread at restaurants instead of butter. It's just the way to go.


Best cappuccino. It rivals many that I enjoyed in Barcelona. The waitress told us that the espresso is imported from Spain, which might start to explain why it's so good. But it was really really good. I had two.

We start with the Ensalada Mono with manchego cheese. So fresh and crisp. The manchego makes an ideal compliment to the greens. It was great, and it paired well with...


... the Pumpkin and Goat Cheese Croquetas. Imagine tasting a savory (but just barely sweet) pumpkin pie, paired with goat cheese, rolled into little balls, and fried. These ping pong ball-sized morsels pack a lot of punch. I can almost taste them as I type this. Oh man.


This is the part of this meal where I just die and go to tapas heaven. I am a *huge* fan of the Sardine. It is easily, in my humble opinion, the most underrated little fish available. A poor man like myself can purchase countless cans of these fellas, and use them for anything. My sardines end up in sandwiches, stir frys, salads, in tacos, rice dishes, noodle dishes, on crackers, with eggs at breakfast, and even on pizza. This fish is it, I'm telling you. When the Spanish take a Sardine and lightly fry up the entire thing in olive oil, it's even better. I eat the head, the tail, and every bone. These three amigos pictured above were served up with a candied lemon summer salad, and garnished with lemon wedges. There you have it folks, Sardinas Fritas done right.


Duck Egg with Mojama. The final piece to come out, and it's just beautiful. A very large duck egg cooked to perfection sits as a canopy atop a mound of potatoes and sauteed mushroom. Mojama is a Spanish delicacy consisting of tuna loins cured for two days in sea salt, then rinsed and laid out to dry. The end result is almost something between jerky and bacon (except in fish form), and makes a perfect compliment to the savory duck egg. When the egg is pierced with a knife, it oozes lazily down onto the plate like a slow motion volcano, all the subtle flavors mixing along the way.

A perfect brunch.

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52 Irving Place
New York, NY 10003

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